A Few Random Notes on Amsterdam

Prinsengracht, Amsterdam.

We moved to the Netherlands sight unseen. Knew nothing about the place outside of the rumors of red light districts and ‘coffee’ shops (just don’t go in and expect a latte !); and the cliched stories of the boy holding back the advancing sea with his finger plugging a hole in a dyke and Anne Frank hiding two years during the Nazi witch hunt of the Jews in a secret annex of a house on Prinsengracht.

Outside Amstel Station, Amsterdam

Back in the 17th century Amsterdam was the commercial and cultural capital of Europe. Dutch Artists, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Hals and van Goyen are credited with launching the Era of Realism in paintings. Amsterdam remains a cultural wonder and melting pot. High end designer boutiques line ancient cobble stoned roads hardly wide enough for a horse-drawn wagon on the way to the cheese market. If a car is carelessly parked, or broken down, or heaven forbid a moving truck has got itself stuck -then you have a problem ! (Incidentally a phrase the Dutch use often!) Louboutin-heeled ladies lounge in ubiquitous sidewalk cafes beside gypsies and stragglers and Nigerian drug dealers. Horns honk continuously, tram cars squeal from one stop to the next : from Oude Kerk (the Old Church in the middle of the Red Light District) through Dam Square with the Royal Palace and tourists and millions of pigeons; past the trendy Jordaan to Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein with their night clubs, art scene and live performers……..

Dam Square and the Royal Palace, Amsterdam

And everywhere there’s bikes and dogs and dogs in bikes and running beside them, and walking to one of the many city parks, and sitting under the tables of one of the many city cafes. Amsterdam is a great place to have a dog. We did not know this.

So we rented a place in a small town near the Dutch flower fields called Hillegom and lived on Haven (the harbor). We arrived with the coldest winter in a decade. – 15 celsius ! With great foresight someone had sent a red and white striped knitted sweater for Spike. An inspired gift !

The Netherlands is built on the water and most of the country lies below sea level – hence the struggle of the Dutch since time immemorial against it. Canals are everywhere channeling oily, dark water criss cross across the flat land and the Dutch wait for temperatures like we experienced with unbridled enthusiasm !

The country’s canals froze and the Elfstedentocht was on ! This is a 120 mile long skating race held in the north of Holland which leads past the 11 historical cities of the province of Friesland. But only when the ice is at least 6 inches thick !

Although we weren’t on the Elfstedentocht route the frozen canal outside our small rental house had everyone out on it – including Spike !  Read more about the world travels of Spike here !

Our daily walks along the canals and farm lands.